Sunday, July 29, 2012

Africa My Motherland

This post is inspired by the common response Simon gives to a plethora of everyday experiences in Uganda. Please complete the following statements with, "Africa my motherland".

Being approached by an immigration officer and told our ride is coming. Turns out he's our friends cousin.

Arriving in our hotel to find a lamp with no light-bulb, a ceiling fan that doesn't work, and a shower that drips water.

Assistant manager uses pen to place loose wires of broken standing fan into socket.

Jenny is deemed "good luck" because the past two times she has been in Uganda there have been family funerals.

We go for a surprise rock climbing expedition wearing skirts and sandals. Andrea may have inadvertently flashed an African man.

Day 5- Jenny discovers broken fans full potential in keeping us cool through rearranging bed.

Simon: "This is the road to the wild... it's miserably miserable."

We drove 1.5 hours for Young Life Club and found a solo teenager. Others were nowhere to be found.

Roll up to a village trading center and Lawrence gets out and plays a traditional board game with a random stranger roadside.

There's a chicken foot in the chicken stew.

Teaching st peters staff and students how to throw a frisbee.

Lawrence and Deo search Pallisa for an hour for the Mzungus. Thinking they've lost us. We were in church...for 4 hours.

"I was going to marry a Mzungu but she rejected me"

Pants are not necessary when you're Don Bosco and 1.5 years old.

The car bottoming out wherever we went. Literally everywhere we went.

Jenny: "Pretty soon we are going to be Flintstoning our way there" (as car scrapes one of the many speed humps)

Being ripped from your sleep by a screaming rooster right outside your window.

Being too tall to fit in your bed and consequently your mosquito net.

Our driver speeds to "pick us" to go to a futbol game. Abruptly stops. Gets out. Pulls tree branch out of front grill of car. Tells us to get in. Acts nonchalant about tree slaying.

Swerving to avoid various baby animals crossing the road, as well as people, bodas, bicycles, and any other thing in the road.

"Jenny you are fat!" X2 (this is a compliment in Africa)

Simon: "Now you are part of us"

Throwback to the college years of straight up dorm chilling and breaking occupancy limitations.

Thinking dairy was a good idea. In reality "milk was a bad choice"

Teaching Pallisa leaders a new song, Prince of Peace. With one book and 3 female voices.

Playing the game signs with students.

"Making a rope with Jenny's hair to tie my cow"

Picking up passengers on the way, everywhere we went. Like it was no BD.

"We go? We go?".... To prompt our leaving.







Saturday, July 28, 2012

True Hospitality

"Our society seems to be increasingly full of fearful, defensive, aggressive people anxiously clinging to their property and inclined to look at the surrounding world with suspicion, always expecting an enemy to suddenly appear, intrude, and do harm.
But still- that is our vocation: to convert the hostis into a hospes, the enemy into a guest and to create the free and fearless space where strangers can cast Off their strangeness become our fellow human beings". -Henri Nouwen

Fear tells us we must cling to what is known to guard ourselves and others we may view as outside of our own life experiences. Many proceed through life this way. Opting for comfort, but all the while feeling a nagging that this can't be all there is. In truth, we all seek a place to live without fear and where community can be found. Yet, if we have any hope to engage in the events of the human experience, and not just that of the West, we must go forward with gentleness and receptivity. Certainly, one can experience this in their own neighborhood, but for me it has taken root during my times in Africa.

I can no longer keep a safe distance from those viewed as strangers. For me, the line between host and guest has been blurred. It is with a courage not of my own that I have shared in the joys, challenges, and sufferings of my African friends. For me, they have created space to engage without fear and to enter into honest dialogue. We've shared our misconceptions of one another and wrestled with our cultural differences. Through it all we have allowed ourselves to be changed and a deep understanding of each other to emerge. My hope is that others would experience this life giving transformation.

Monday, July 23, 2012

Blessed Are The Flexible For They Will Not Break

Plans or "the program" are tentative here in Africa.  I have come to greatly appreciate this over time, but for the new visitor is can be jarring at first.  A common misconception Americans have of Africans is they are lazy.  Africans believe Americans are consumed by busyness which for some isn't too far from the truth.  What can be perceived as laziness to some is in fact a strong sense of the importance of space in one's life and the freedom to be available.  The title of this post is one of many of Simon's famous quotes.   For Andrea and I it has been at times just what we've needed to be reminded of.

We have experienced much over the past several days.  So much that I fear a rushed post at the internet cafe will not do it justice.  I suspect I will expand upon this post later.  Our time at St. Peter's on Friday was bittersweet for me.   Time spent away from here has caused me to at time lose sight of the vision my Ugandan friends have for high-quality rural education here in Pallisa.  Andrea and I sat in Lawrence's (headmasters) office for several hours in the morning while students were taking exams.  We talked about the blessings and challenges of the school.  One of the blessings is that has just received official licensing from the Ministry of Education!  With this has come a name change from St. Peter's College to St. Peter's Secondary School.  The Ministry of Education is not recognizing secondary schools as colleges.  Lawrence shared the news with students as they gathered to greet us after exams.  He assured them this would not change anything and gave the example of parents giving a baby their name at birth.  "It is not our job to give our name, the Ministry of Education does."  In the afternoon we taught some of the YL campaigner kids at the school to play the game signs and they taught Andrea a couple songs that they sing at Club here.  Andrea is working on her Swahili and will master "Jambo Rafiki" before we leave next weekend.

If there is one thing my African friends like to do is to always keep me on my toes and surprise me.  So when Lawrence and Deo arrived at the hotel and told us we were going on a tour, I truly did not know where we would end up.  Although I had my suspicions.  We climbed into the car and Simon told us, "Anything can happen in Young Life!" as we drove off.  We drove out past Agule and headed toward the rocks.  These are beautiful outcrops that jut above the villages and give a spectacular 360 view of the countryside.  I had done this previously, but not the particular set of rocks out near Nyagu Lake.  We first stopped at the lake and chatted with local fisherman; many were young boys.  They casually sat in their boats among the papyrus and Andrea captured the scene with her camera.  We were then off to climb the rocks...in our skirts and "rugged" sandals! Remember we didn't know we were going to do some serious climbing.  We started off and before too long we had many village children trailing behind and some leading the way.  In short there were many "underfoot" and the thought of tripping over them caused considerable anxiety, but the view was worth it.  Words cannot express what we saw.  Pictures will come once we get back stateside.

Yesterday, we hooked up with some other American friends that are here working at the clinic in Agule.  We met at the orphanage behind our hotel (To Africa with Love) and the children led us to church.  It was children's Sunday and many of the children were involved in leading songs, skits, and reciting memory verses.  The sermon was given by their Sunday school teacher, Loi.  One thing I forgot to mention to Andrea was how long church goes in Africa.  It is not uncommon for it to be a 3 or 4 hour endeavor.  At about 4 hours I was ushered to the side of the church by Marci from the orphanage, "Someone is here for you."  Sure enough it was our tour guides Lawrence and Deo ready for another adventure.  This time they had brought along James, a YL staff member and we were to travel to Kumi to visit a relatively new Club there.  Of course, they had spent an hour looking for us.  Even though I had told them our plans the evening before.  We had a good laugh over their hunt for the Mzungus.  I teased that they feared we had headed back to the U.S.

As soon as we walked into the youth hall where Club was being held the kids burst into song and we were drawn into dancing and singing along.  This was the 3rd Club ever held in Kumi town and about 20 kids had gathered which was so encouraging to see.  Simon and Pious are the leaders their and are excited to be taking a group of these kids to camp in early August in Mbale.  Afterwards we chatted with kids outside before heading back to Pallisa.  For many this was their first Club EVER and were excited to come again.  It was a marathon Sunday, but we returned to the hotel encouraged and lighthearted.  "For blessed are the flexible for they will not break."   

      

Friday, July 20, 2012

Jetsetting is Unnatural

On paper our travel itinerary looked manageable.  Both our flights to London and then to Africa were overnight.  It seemed this arrangement would help ease our bodies into the 7 hour time difference.  That was simply not so.  Although our travel ran smoothly, our bodies responded to the exhausting demands of jetsetting.

After making our way from the airport in Etebbe to Kampala we stopped at a couple places before heading to Simon and Harriet's home.  This is where we would be hosted for the day prior to leaving for Pallisa Thursday.

One of these stops was a cafe called Steers (a favorite western-style cafe).  Simon ran an errand while Andrea and I sat and people watched.  It is hard to describe the bustle of an African city.  As Andrea put it, there is nothing to compare it to.  Simon describes it as disorganized.  As we continue to watch the sea of pedestrians move past the cafe windows and provide our reactions, a familiar face entered my view.  I yelled, "Patrick!" as I moved to get the attention of a Young Life friend from Pallisa.  What are the odds that I would see an old friend in the midst of so many strangers!  He and his friend joined us for a soda and we promised to meet up in Pallisa in a few days.  He was only in Kampala till Thursday as well.

After another quick stop at the Young Life office to meet YL Uganda's newest staff member, Rogers, we arrived at Simon's for a late lunch.  Harriet prepared a yummy spread for us which was much appreciated after 2 days of airports and planes.  Trying best to keep our eyes open and catch up with our hosts, we were ushered into our rooms to rest soon after eating. 

What followed after our nap can best be described as a social intermission.  We would return to bed for 13 hours!!  During this time we chatted and laughed with 4 of Simon's children (including the baby of 20 months, Don Bosco).  Simon's other children (3) are boarders at their respective schools.  Don stole the show for Andrea.  Demanding her attention by addressing her as, "Auntie" and dancing.  Once we returned to sleep we asked to be woken up for dinner.  I don't remember this, but Andrea says Simon woke us at 9 for dinner and I replied, "No, sleeping" and rolled over.  I was down for the count.  Rest assured I apologized for my shortness the next morning to Simon.  He completely understood our need for sleep.

Turns out we needed the rest for our travel day to Pallisa (3-4 hours).  Andrea asked me how long it takes and I could only give a range. Honestly, it has taken a different amount of time each trip I've made.  Simon insists we will pass slowly to our destination.  There is no rush.

We ate breakfast and then spent some time with Harriet and Don.  Don spent the morning making motorcycle sounds, saying "Boda boda", and pushing around a small foot stool.  Boda boda is what the motorcycle taxis are called.  We would ask him where his boda boda was going and he'd stop and flash his dimple-filled smile.

Not only was there excitement in the house because of Don, but also due to the arrival of a bunk bed for the children.  After 2 years in their house in Kampala the children have beds.  Prior to this they slept on thick mattresses on the floor.  Although, Andrea and I can attest to their comfort it is not the most ideal.

We left Kampala late morning and arrived in Pallisa mid-afternoon.  We spent the rest of the day settling into our room at the Country Inn and decompressing.  Andrea tried matooke (smashed banana) for the first time with rice and beans for dinner and we were in bed under our mosquito nets by 9pm, excited for our visit to the school Friday.  Quite the exciting pair we are!

-Jenny

Sunday, July 15, 2012

Into Africa: Version 4.0

Tomorrow evening I board a plane to London and start the journey back to African red dirt! This time I will be traveling for just 2 weeks with a friend who teaches elementary kids (K-1) in Portland.  I'm excited to see old friends and to spend time with students at St. Peter's.  They will be starting their final exams when I arrive and leaving for break on July 27th.  I'm sure they will want to spend time studying, but also relaxing and playing games with the Americans.  Maybe even learning some more science review songs.  They mastered the water cycle song last summer!

In addition to visiting students at St. Peter's, we will also be touring other parts of eastern Uganda outside of Pallisa District, and Kampala (capital city) briefly.  This includes a trip to Kumi where we will spend time with Young Life volunteer leaders.  I'm looking forward to seeing more of the beautiful rural parts of the country.

Although this is my fourth trip to east Africa, the familiar excitement and anticipation associated with a trip like this still floods my body.  Just last night I spoke with a dear friend who recently returned from a month in Pallisa, Uganda.  She reinforced the fact that with every "going" there are always new things to learn and people to share life with.  I look forward to the conversations I will have with new and old friends under jackfruit trees or over a shared meal.  And to walk through this experience with Andrea.  But most importantly, for the ways our lives and spirits will be forever changed and influenced by those we encounter.  If I were to boil down what Africa has taught me over the years it would be the importance of the simple things in life.  To turn my loneliness into solitude.  My busyness into rest.  The things we Americans value pale in comparison to the richness of life my African friends share.

We look forward to sharing our stories with you throughout this journey.

-Jenny & Andrea



   

Sunday, August 28, 2011

The Gremlin

I will venture to say most of my students will not know the creatures that this post pays tribute to so I will give a brief description to start.  I apologize for those who are already in the know and experienced many a nightmare as a child or avoided pouring water on the family dog (especially if it was "Gizmo sized") in fear of it growing into one of these vengeful pests as a result of this flick.  Gremlins was a 1984 horror comedy film where miniature green monsters tear through a small town.   This happens because a bank teller releases these hideous creatures after gaining a new pet as a Christmas present and violating two of three simple rules: No water (violated), no food after midnight (violated), and no bright light.

"So, when your washing machine blows up or your TV goes on the fritz, before you call the repair man, turn on all the lights and look under all the beds. 'Cause you never can tell, there just might be a gremlin in your house."





Now that we are all on the same page let me continue with what I lovingly referred to as The Gremlin my last week in Uganda.  Indeed the mischievous gremlins were scary looking (remember I was a kid), but more importantly they made interesting noises.  Grumbling mostly.  Here enters the connection between the noises Gremlins make and my GI tract.

I had made it 5 weeks in Africa sickness free.  In fact I felt great!  Then that last week hit and I thought my insides were deteriorating.  It is not uncommon to have stomach upset as an American abroad.  Simply put our bodies are not use to some of the foods eaten elsewhere.  Let me be clear in stating that I did not eat anything that was foul or rotten.  I later realized my body was probably fighting off some stomach infection, however the symptoms presented very much like malaria.  Don't worry the two tests I took came back negative...a relief.  I have never had malaria, but have been with friends who have and it's not fun.  For the better part of the week it was all I could do to keep my body hydrated as it wanted nothing to do with food and I grew pretty week.  The Gremlin (residing in my stomach) would keep me up most nights lying in the fetal position and was loud enough to be heard by others throughout the day.  Trying to make light of the situation I gave the stomach bug its name on Day 3 and it was a running joke for the rest of the trip.  After a week of antibiotics and a diet of solely oatmeal, I was much better for my flight back home which I'm incredibly thankful for.  You certainly don't want to be traveling sick for two days!

Special thanks to Amy & Kelcie for their amazing care, Gatorade packets, oatmeal, and laughter.
 

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Challenges to Overcome

During my time at St. Peter's College Amusala I attempted to gain as much insight about the inner workings and challenges the school faces as I could.  I asked more questions than I can keep track of.  I'm certain many of the staff wondered if my questions would ever end!  Although they would never let on to this.  They were incredibly gracious and open with me, the questioning American.

It's difficult starting a school.  Even in the U.S most start-up schools fail within a few short years.  This is certainly the case with charter schools.  In Pallisa it is no different.  Currently there are close to 23 secondary schools in the district.  On my 2 mile walk to St. Peter's each day I passed 6 alone!  Naturally, many would question why anyone would start a school in a community with so many.  Simply put it's a matter of quality over quantity.

In 1996 the Ugandan government put into place Universal Primary Education (UPE) which required every child to attend primary school fee free.  This caused an influx of children in the primary schools (class size swells into the 100s) and a decrease in the quality of education they received.  One friend of mine teaches a 4th grade class of 300 students!!  She is understandably frustrated by the circumstances.  How could one teacher tend to that many children's academic progress?  The government had a good idea, but failed to provide the proper structure to carry it out (more schools, teachers, and resources).  UPE has been more of a problem than a solution.

St. Peter's vision is to increase the standard of education in the area and already has attracted approximately 150 students to attend.  Comparatively, other start-up schools in the area have struggled to meet the same level of enrollment in twice the time!  St. Peter's has experienced some success, but still faces some major challenges.  In the interest of time I will list these challenges and with time work to unpackage them in subsequent posts.
  • Incomplete laboratory set-up for the sciences.  Prior to my visit there were no gas hook-ups (or source of propane) for chemistry labs, but due to the financial support of some of my colleagues I was able to secure a gas tank and the rubber tubing & splicers to attach Bunsen burners (6 total) for this much needed project. 
  • 100 single seated desks are required by the National Examination Board for  a school to be registered as a testing center (among other criteria).
  • Complete the main hall (place of testing) with a cement floor, window shutters, and doors.
  • Dormitories for both boys and girls.  Students are using temporary housing which is crowded and insufficient for the 80 students who board.  Many girls sleep on the floor on mattresses and lack enough mosquito nets.
  • A reliable energy source.  Due to unreliable hydroelectric power (supplied from Jinja 2 hours away) a diesel generator (on loan) is used to run the computer (also on loan) in the office.  Two small solar panels and battery can supply the 6 classrooms and girls dorm with lighting, but are insufficient. 
  • A clean water source.  Two shallow wells have been dug, but do not provide safe water.  A deep bore well is needed.  Students currently walk 2 miles to the nearest well; daily trips which I often frequented with students carefully balancing a filled jug on my headUpdate:  Shortly before leaving Pallisa the school leadership was in communication with a local water engineer in hopes to move forward with the well project. 
  • A fence around the school compound for security.
  • Curriculum materials and support texts/novels to establish a library.  Few students can afford textbooks and it is not uncommon to have many students share one book.
  • Feeding boarders (2 meals/day).  Typically student's school fees would cover this cost, but many students have been unable to pay.  Their parents promising to pay once they harvest food to sell.  There is currently a drought in eastern (and much of northern) Uganda and the harvest is yielding little food.  Food prices have doubled and food has become more scarce.  Many speak of pending famine.   
It is easy to get caught up in the details of this long list and not stop to appreciate the good work that is being done in spite of these challenges!  St. Peter's staff are committed to tackling these challenges and working to find solutions.  Together we must push forward and think creatively about how we will accomplish what some may consider an impossible dream.  In the midst of criticism I am confident that trails are blazed when people work together for a more promising future.  That is what pushes us onward.  The hope of a community radically changed.