The Gremlin

I will venture to say most of my students will not know the creatures that this post pays tribute to so I will give a brief description to start.  I apologize for those who are already in the know and experienced many a nightmare as a child or avoided pouring water on the family dog (especially if it was "Gizmo sized") in fear of it growing into one of these vengeful pests as a result of this flick.  Gremlins was a 1984 horror comedy film where miniature green monsters tear through a small town.   This happens because a bank teller releases these hideous creatures after gaining a new pet as a Christmas present and violating two of three simple rules: No water (violated), no food after midnight (violated), and no bright light.

"So, when your washing machine blows up or your TV goes on the fritz, before you call the repair man, turn on all the lights and look under all the beds. 'Cause you never can tell, there just might be a gremlin in your house."

Now that we are all on the same page let me continue with what I lovingly referred to as The Gremlin my last week in Uganda.  Indeed the mischievous gremlins were scary looking (remember I was a kid), but more importantly they made interesting noises.  Grumbling mostly.  Here enters the connection between the noises Gremlins make and my GI tract.

I had made it 5 weeks in Africa sickness free.  In fact I felt great!  Then that last week hit and I thought my insides were deteriorating.  It is not uncommon to have stomach upset as an American abroad.  Simply put our bodies are not use to some of the foods eaten elsewhere.  Let me be clear in stating that I did not eat anything that was foul or rotten.  I later realized my body was probably fighting off some stomach infection, however the symptoms presented very much like malaria.  Don't worry the two tests I took came back negative...a relief.  I have never had malaria, but have been with friends who have and it's not fun.  For the better part of the week it was all I could do to keep my body hydrated as it wanted nothing to do with food and I grew pretty week.  The Gremlin (residing in my stomach) would keep me up most nights lying in the fetal position and was loud enough to be heard by others throughout the day.  Trying to make light of the situation I gave the stomach bug its name on Day 3 and it was a running joke for the rest of the trip.  After a week of antibiotics and a diet of solely oatmeal, I was much better for my flight back home which I'm incredibly thankful for.  You certainly don't want to be traveling sick for two days!

Special thanks to Amy & Kelcie for their amazing care, Gatorade packets, oatmeal, and laughter.
 

Challenges to Overcome

During my time at St. Peter's College Amusala I attempted to gain as much insight about the inner workings and challenges the school faces as I could.  I asked more questions than I can keep track of.  I'm certain many of the staff wondered if my questions would ever end!  Although they would never let on to this.  They were incredibly gracious and open with me, the questioning American.

It's difficult starting a school.  Even in the U.S most start-up schools fail within a few short years.  This is certainly the case with charter schools.  In Pallisa it is no different.  Currently there are close to 23 secondary schools in the district.  On my 2 mile walk to St. Peter's each day I passed 6 alone!  Naturally, many would question why anyone would start a school in a community with so many.  Simply put it's a matter of quality over quantity.

In 1996 the Ugandan government put into place Universal Primary Education (UPE) which required every child to attend primary school fee free.  This caused an influx of children in the primary schools (class size swells into the 100s) and a decrease in the quality of education they received.  One friend of mine teaches a 4th grade class of 300 students!!  She is understandably frustrated by the circumstances.  How could one teacher tend to that many children's academic progress?  The government had a good idea, but failed to provide the proper structure to carry it out (more schools, teachers, and resources).  UPE has been more of a problem than a solution.

St. Peter's vision is to increase the standard of education in the area and already has attracted approximately 150 students to attend.  Comparatively, other start-up schools in the area have struggled to meet the same level of enrollment in twice the time!  St. Peter's has experienced some success, but still faces some major challenges.  In the interest of time I will list these challenges and with time work to unpackage them in subsequent posts.

• Incomplete laboratory set-up for the sciences.  Prior to my visit there were no gas hook-ups (or source of propane) for chemistry labs, but due to the financial support of some of my colleagues I was able to secure a gas tank and the rubber tubing & splicers to attach Bunsen burners (6 total) for this much needed project. 
• 100 single seated desks are required by the National Examination Board for  a school to be registered as a testing center (among other criteria).
• Complete the main hall (place of testing) with a cement floor, window shutters, and doors.
• Dormitories for both boys and girls.  Students are using temporary housing which is crowded and insufficient for the 80 students who board.  Many girls sleep on the floor on mattresses and lack enough mosquito nets.
• A reliable energy source.  Due to unreliable hydroelectric power (supplied from Jinja 2 hours away) a diesel generator (on loan) is used to run the computer (also on loan) in the office.  Two small solar panels and battery can supply the 6 classrooms and girls dorm with lighting, but are insufficient. 
• A clean water source.  Two shallow wells have been dug, but do not provide safe water.  A deep bore well is needed.  Students currently walk 2 miles to the nearest well; daily trips which I often frequented with students carefully balancing a filled jug on my head.  Update:  Shortly before leaving Pallisa the school leadership was in communication with a local water engineer in hopes to move forward with the well project. 
• A fence around the school compound for security.
• Curriculum materials and support texts/novels to establish a library.  Few students can afford textbooks and it is not uncommon to have many students share one book.
• Feeding boarders (2 meals/day).  Typically student's school fees would cover this cost, but many students have been unable to pay.  Their parents promising to pay once they harvest food to sell.  There is currently a drought in eastern (and much of northern) Uganda and the harvest is yielding little food.  Food prices have doubled and food has become more scarce.  Many speak of pending famine.   

It is easy to get caught up in the details of this long list and not stop to appreciate the good work that is being done in spite of these challenges!  St. Peter's staff are committed to tackling these challenges and working to find solutions.  Together we must push forward and think creatively about how we will accomplish what some may consider an impossible dream.  In the midst of criticism I am confident that trails are blazed when people work together for a more promising future.  That is what pushes us onward.  The hope of a community radically changed.

The Two Es

Energy- the ability to do work.  Energy can take a wide variety of forms- heat (thermal), light (radiant), mechanical, electrical, chemical, and nuclear energy.  There are two types of energy- stored (potential) energy and working (kinetic) energy.  For example, the food you eat contains chemical energy, and your body stores this energy until you release it when you work or play.  

All forms of energy are stored in different ways, in the energy sources that we use every day.  We use energy sources (oil, gas, wind, solar) to generate the electricity we need for our homes, businesses, schools, and factories.  Electricity (a form of energy made available by the flow of electric charge through a conductor) "energizes" our computers, lights, refrigerators, and washing machines to name only a few uses.      

Much of the electricity network in Uganda is poorly maintained and the country experiences frequent power outages. Less than 10 percent of the population have access to electricity and many towns, especially in the North of the country are without electrical power. In rural areas only about 2-3 percent have access to electricity, of which less than half is provided through the national grid, the remainder coming from household generators, car batteries or solar photovoltaic (PV) units. About 97% of Uganda's population do not have access to electricity.  Read more about the energy profile of the country here.  Despite its great importance in our daily lives, few of us probably stop to think what life would be like without electricity.  Like air and water, we tend to take electricity for granted.

I came to terms with the truth in this statement my first night in Uganda.  When traveling to Africa one of the most important items in my pack is a headlamp (the second a supply of Tums).  You can be certain I have offered up many appreciative words to the Petzel manufacturers (in addition to their making of solid climbing equipment).  A headlamp is how you cope with frequent power blackouts and stubborn back-up generators.  It keeps you from running into something or someone (this has happened).


I found myself in a situation in which I sadly must report I expressed animosity towards my headlamp (yes an inanimate object) and cursed my forgetfulness.  I had just got settled into my room when the power went out leaving me fumbling around in unfamiliar darkness.  I found my bag and went to grab the headlamp- not there.  A certain dread fell over me as I realized I had not remembered packing it in Mombasa, Kenya.  Frustrated and ashamed at the level of frustration felt I decided to go to bed at 7:30pm.  


We use energy to do everything we do, from making a jump shot to baking our favorite cookies to sending astronauts into space- energy is there, making sure we have the power to do it all.
 

Could you imagine living without electricity? What would your life be like? 

Note: I found my headlamp at the bottom of my pack the next day.  I had a good laugh.

Wrong Way On a One-Way & Went to Prison

Just another day in Uganda!  These events happened on my last day in Africa, fitting really.  Why wouldn't it be action packed?!  Some Ugandan friends and I were in Jinja (the city which boasts the source of the Nile River) to explore a potential non-profit partnership for the school.  The Uganda America Partnership Organization operates currently in central and northern Uganda.  They actively engage in the development of Uganda through forming partnerships with Ugandans for a better future.  Projects include building wells, orphanages, and a self-sustaining economic and community development project for widows and orphans crafting jewelry.  Probably the most respectful part of what they are achieving is that the organization has NEVER given any hand-outs!  Something many non-profits in the country who construct buildings or give resources (money), but offer no training or support of African leadership could learn from.  Part of the landscape of Uganda are the signs of many NGOs scattered throughout, however most are short lived with empty buildings left standing and the lost hope of failed initiatives felt by communities.

Upon arriving in Jinja we were able to spend some time seeing the woman's project in action.  We  drove out to a rural community where woman were selling their jewelry back to the organization and receiving credit to their village savings and loan accounts.  We were able to get a better feel for what the organization (and ultimately the locals) was achieving in these communities.  It was an amazing success story!  With time to burn until we met up with the group from the States for dinner we decided to visit the cousin (who lived in Jinja) of one of the friends I was with for tea.  Little did I know he had an interesting living arrangement.

After picking up some tea we turned down a busy city street.  I quickly realized it was a one-way street and we were traveling "against the stream".  Unfortunately the friend driving was a little slower in realizing this than I.  Not wanting to be that pesky back seat driver I gave him a few extra moments to realize our circumstances.  However,  others in the car beat me to the task, "yo man! you are driving the wrong way!"  We were able to turn off onto a side street (two-way) with horns blaring at us and me (half-jokingly) telling Joseph (the driver) that up until this point I felt safe with his driving, but was beginning to seriously doubt my judgment.  Within 5 minutes I realized where we were headed...jail.

We drove out of the city and through a run-down industrial section on the shores of Lake Victoria which I was told once boasted a bustling fishing industry.  We arrived at a guarded gate and I was told we were at Jinja Prison.  The cousin is a corrections officer and lives on the grounds.  As we drove in my confusion gave way to inward laughter....seriously?!  We drove past prisoners working on the grounds and proceeded past the various buildings and up a hill to the workers homes.  At the top of the hill I gazed out the window and was met with an unobstructed few of the city and Lake Victoria...simply remarkable!

We had tea, chatted into the late afternoon, and played several games of checkers (with soda bottle tops).  My friend's cousin was disappointed that we hadn't come earlier so he could have given me the tour and introduced me to some of the staff and residents.  He asked if I had ever been in prison in the States.  I joked replying that typically being in a prison means you are a prisoner!  Later, I passed a soccer ball with some of the staff's kids as the sun sunk below the horizon and reflected sunset colors of orange and purple across Lake Victoria, my last sunset in Africa.  I couldn't have asked for a better end to my time here.   

Africans are Resourceful

"I'd be a great dentist!"  beamed Ezekial (deputy teacher) as he chiseled away at a cow jawbone attempting to free a molar.  "Yeah, on the dead!" was Raymond's (history teacher) reply.  This is just a glimpse into our comical biology lab preparations Monday morning for the senior 4 students.

Ezekial and Ishmael (biology teacher) had spent the previous two days hunting around the district for the various materials needed for the lab.  The most difficult to secure were: teeth (cow/goat), vertebrae from a goat, and cow liver.  (Not wanting to waste precious meat staff had arranged to use the liver of sick cow that was to be slaughtered and disgarded.  In addition to the liver staff also received a bonus, liver flukes -parasitic flatworms- which they later preserved in the lab for student observations).  This unusual  search prompted local residents to contact the headmaster of the school concerned that the staff were consulting a traditional healer (witch doctor).  Why else would anyone want so many bones?!  Well, for science of course!

By the end of the morning the lab was set-up for students.  They entered and began their observations.  They then conducted an experiment to test the enzyme activity in various tissues hence the raw and boiled liver.  As I watched students complete the lab (unsure if it would even happen four hours earlier), I was reminded of how resourceful Africans are.  They use what is available to the best of their ability.  Unfortunately, not many here share the same thought.  A negative way of thinking many staff in the school and members of the community are trying to change.

Set Down the Tools: Day 3

The buzz around town has been concerning the nationwide strike of teachers which started on Wednesday.  Teachers have set down their tools and students have either been sent home or attempt to teach lessons themselves.  Last night I watched news coverage of a crowded classroom absent of a teacher.  One student stood before them conducting a lesson.  Public teachers are demanding a fair wage from the government.  Currently, teachers earn the equivalent of about $150 per month, a hardly liveable wage given the current inflation.  Common items (like sugar) have doubled in price.  The President (since 1986) is unwilling to see the importance of teachers to the countries future.  Many teachers have grown tired of keeping silent and are now standing in solidarity demanding changes to the current education system.

Myth Busters: Africa Edition

"Americans can't ride bikes!" was the claim of a group of senior 6 students as we discussed ways of transportation in the States.  Their understanding isn't completely off-base.  They assumed most Americans drive from point A to point B which most do, unlike here where few drive and most either "foot" (walk) or bike.  It is not uncommon to see someone pedaling a bike with a bed frame balanced on the back, seemingly defying the laws of physics!  One can even hitch a ride on a bicycle taxi.  Of course, I quickly set out to prove their statement a myth.

At first I was given a student's bike that was way too big for me.  I would have needed a boost to get onto the seat which was up to the middle of my torso!  Oh the woes of being vertically challenged.  A smaller bike was found, but it was still a struggle to get on gracefully especially wearing a skirt.  After much laughter and some student assistance I managed to get on it and start pedaling.  I rode around the courtyard to the sound of students laughing and cheering.  Myth busted!

"We're here because of the dream"

I asked Ishmael (a chemistry and biology teacher) why he continues to come back day after day to St. Peter's College in spite of the challenges this start up school faces.  His reply revealed his passion for transforming young people through education.

"Many of my friends in the city think I'm crazy!  Why would I leave teaching at a school with plenty of resources to come here?  My colleagues and I are here because we have a common dream.  To bring about change in this rural district.  To empower the youth.  To give them hope for a better future.  Because of this vision we will continue on lacking infrastructure and materials.  Even on little pay.  This staff is hardworking and determined."

Ishmael is from a surrounding village and knows first hand the struggles students face in rural schools.  He struggled through Pallisa schools.  He has returned here to provide a different experience for students than his own.  The staff here at St. Peter's College are striving to establish the school as the best in the area.  Already since it's opening last year St. Peter's has established a name for itself in the community.  No doubt the strong and passionate staff and quality of instruction has contributed to this.  Additionally there is a significant student culture/attitude that prevails.  The phrase "Be Opposite" is heard frequently among students and in student-teacher interactions.  This means for students to counter their negative surroundings.  To be change in their environment.  When others quit, you continue on.  When others complain, you encourage.  As a result students become more driven and focused.  They challenge each other and grow as a result.  They are establishing character which will help carry them towards their futures.  These students are grateful for the time and energy their teachers are pouring into them (Mon-Sat 8a-5p and some evening sessions for 80 boarding students).  I would be too!

First Things First

The title of this post reflects the motto of St. Peter's School Amusala.  Simon, the director told me it reminds students to set goals and priorities in order to be successful.  Yesterday was my first day with students.  Unfortunately, another staff member's father passed away and a group of about 50 students and the headmaster traveled to the funeral in a neighboring district (40kilometers away).  The remaining students stayed behind for a half day with me.  I did a group discussion with students giving them the opportunity to get to know me and I them.  They had many questions about America and I asked them what it's like to be a teenager in Uganda.  Much like teens in the States, Ugandans love music.  Some of their favorite hip-hop and R&B artists include Jay-Z and Rihanna.  Students asked that I teach them a song.  The first song that came to mind was Don't Stop Believing.  We had a blast learning the lyrics and students enjoyed laying down the rhythm.  It was very Glee like.  I'll be sure to record it once we perfect it.

Students are preparing for subject exams (mid-terms) on Wednesday so we spent the rest of our time reviewing biology and chemistry.  The senior 4 (junior equivalent) had many great questions.  At the end of our study session they were grateful for the opportunity and looking forward to my future review lessons.  Students will be taking exams till the 29th.

The biggest challenge for students and myself will be the language barrier.  English is the 2nd, 3rd, or 4th language for students with village languages being their primary.  I assured them we will struggle together, me with Auteso (local language) and students with English (spoken in schools here).

I'm looking forward to spending more time at St. Peter's the next 3 weeks.  The students' enthusiasm for learning is refreshing! 

"You are most welcome!"

On Saturday morning I arrived in Uganda after traveling by bus overnight from Nairobi, Kenya.  In total the journey lasted 13 hours, 2 of which were spent at the border anxiously waiting for the bus to clear customs and take us back on.  A couple of fellow passengers assured me this was not the norm and began to grow impatient.  This only fueled my anxiety as Africans are some of the most patient people I know!

Prior to leaving Nairobi I received news that the friend who I would be visiting in Pallisa, Uganda had just lost his mother.  I would be arriving just in time for the funeral, my first African funeral.  I arrived at my friend Simon's family compound which now hosts St. Peter's School Amusala as he and his family have moved to Kampala (capital city of Uganda) and was warmly greeted by Simon.  He then ushered me into a sea of people.  There was close to 500 and more would visit in the coming days.  To my surprise I was asked to speak briefly on behalf of the non-profit Simon works for and of which I have volunteered.  The day was a great reflection of how Simon's mother touched many in this rural community.  I was fortunate to be a part of this time with the family and friends.  I was introduced to many people and spent time entertaining some of the younger children.  After winding down over a cup of tea with Harriet (Simon's wife) I headed back the 3 kilometers into the center of town and to the inn where I will be staying for a much needed nights rest.

Pay Your Way

Imagine not attending school, not because you would rather hang with your friends, sleep in, or play the latest video game, but because you/your parents are unable to pay the required school fees.  This is a common occurrence for many kids in east Africa.  Students and their families here in Kenya and Uganda know the importance an education plays in a person's life.  Education is power.  For many it is a way out of extreme poverty.  It is an opportunity to gain skills and knowledge to be able to make a difference in their communities.  To give back.

In many African countries secondary education (and sometimes primary) is not funded by the government, but entirely by the people.  In Kenya, the government has moved towards funding all schools, but unfortunately this funding is sparse and fails to come close to meeting the school's needs.  While in Kenya I spoke with a principal and science teacher at a private neighborhood school founded 6 years ago.  Parents choose to send their kids to private school hoping for a better education than what is offered in the government funded public schools.  Betty Mutegi (the principal) informed me that it costs $300,000 to run the school for a year.  Students struggle to pay fees which in turn pay teacher salaries.  In addition, students pay for uniforms and textbooks.  Walking away from the conversation I felt overwhelmed.  This is not an isolated case, but is the problem of many schools in the region.  Several days later I sat down with a Kenyan friend of mine, a local community development workers and asked, "How can people help the education system here?"

He had an incredibly valid point.  "Many school administrators ask for funds for the school, but what will they be for?  Desks, materials, and textbooks?  If students are unable to attend school it will have been for nothing.  Desks will be empty, textbooks unused, and there will be no need for teachers.  Provide an opportunity for school fees to be paid.  Get the kids in the classroom."

In the U.S we take education for granted far too often.  Although we have many similar problems to schools around the world, everyone has the opportunity to attend school, even college.  Would you participate more actively in your education if you knew it wasn't a guarantee?

High Stakes

In the U.S the phrase "high stakes testing" is commonly used when referring to standardized tests which measure student performance and determine federal funding or a school's label as "failing".  Here in Kenya (as in much of east Africa) the stakes are high, but the students take all of the risk and in turn are burdened with the consequences. 

In grade 8 (or standard 8 as it's called here) students take National Exams which determine what high school they will attend.  Students from public, private, and international schools around the country are competing for spots at high schools.  If students do not perform well on their exam they will attend a low quality school (poor instruction, lack of materials, and overcrowded classes reaching 50 students) or not attend high school at all.  A lot rests on one exam, a student's future opportunities.  Now that's high stakes.

The Journey

Disclaimer to Students:  I know I promised to keep posts short and I assure you future ones will be.  We needed to lay the foundation for this first one and as you are all aware that takes a little more time and effort.

The hustle and bustle of the end of the school year has caught me completely off guard, but not for the reasons you may think.  Sure the grading frenzy of the end of the year projects has been less than desirable, but more pressing has been the reality of my upcoming departure from the States and the start of my daunting summer plans.

This summer I have an opportunity to travel back to Africa to combine my two passions of fostering global community and teaching, and to invite you along for the ride.  As some may be aware, I have had the privilege of traveling to Africa several times over the course of the past 6 years for various development projects.  In 2008, I traveled to Pallisa, Uganda where I worked with a team to build a community well and help staff a rural clinic.  It was there that I delivered two babies!  One of which bares my name, a surreal honor.

This summer I will be traveling back to Pallisa where much has changed since my last visit in 2008. Where a field once stretched now stands St. Peter’s College Ambusala, a secondary school. The vision for this community project that Simon Okiria (a leader in the community) shared with me then is now a reality! Although he has moved his non-profit work and family to Kampala, Simon still makes the 185 km (114 miles) trek to the school regularly because he believes in the power of education.

St. Peter's College Amusala is a growing privately run institution that started just last year and is currently undergoing registration by the Ugandan Ministry of Education. The school is still in its infancy, but Simon and the school’s headmaster Lawrence are moving full steam ahead. They envision St. Peter’s as becoming one of the most sound learning institutions in eastern Uganda. Currently their total enrollment is 76 for classes 2, 3, 4 and 6 (9-11th & 7th grade equivalents). This spring they
admitted the first 1 & 5 classes with the expected total enrollment to go to 150. The physical structure of the school is simple at best with six classrooms, a main hall, and a rough science lab. Plans to set up a library and dormitories for both boys and girls are in place, but lack funding.

Senior 1 class hard at work.

 Lawrence and I view my time at the school this summer as part of a larger long-term project relationship. I’m looking to create the avenues for a partnership between St. Peter’s and school communities here in the states, including my own (Bath Middle School). I look forward to teaching science, supporting the school staff and their efforts to solidify curriculum, and helping with building projects around the school grounds.  This includes exploring alternative energy sources, an investigation students back at Bath Middle will extend upon as part of an energy expedition in the fall.

Just three years ago this was an empty field, now it’s home to St. Peter’s College Ambusala.

 The purpose of this blog is two-fold:  to be a guide of my time teaching abroad and to be an eye-opener for my soon to be 8th grade students.  The thought being they would share in this experience with me and it would spark intentional conversations with buddies at the beach or over an ice cream downtown at Dots.   I leave Maine on June 28th and will be leading a group of college students on a 2-week trip to Kenya.   I will wave goodbye to the group at the Nairobi airport on the 14th of July and head to Uganda till mid-August.   Be sure to stay tuned and have fun reading!  In the meantime, may you enjoy the start of your summer!